Young flappers liked short skirts but mid-calf was another popular length, made for tall, skinny bodies.
anonymous illustration from the Art-Goût-Beauté Art, Taste, Beauty Fashion Periodical, 1920sanonymous illustration from the Art-Goût-Beauté – Art, Taste, Beauty Fashion Periodical, 1920s‘A Few Pretty Nolvelties’ Illustrator unknown, 1920sMisses’ dresses from a fashion catalogue, 19201923 fashion dainty frocks in new summer colours1920s girls fashionThe Leavenworth Times, Kansas, March 19, 1922. The language of young women has always come under fire. Young women always lead language change because young women gestate, birth and raise children, who learn their mother tongue.
“Exoticism”
An Evening Soirée, Dean Cornwell (1892-1960) 1921Jewellery catalogue 1927
Fur
Illustration by Earl Christy 1920s
1920s Children’s Fashion
Clothes in children’s catalogues offer a glimpse into how the wealthy classes were dressing their children.
McCall’s Magazine – August 1921 art by Torre Bevans1920s school dresses
The dresses above look quite similar to girls’ dresses which came back into fashion in the 1960s.
The 1960s version was likewise a tunic style of dress with dropped waist (or no waist). The a-line shape, or a pencil shape, came back into fashion at the turn of the decade 1959-1960 and remained all through the Kennedy years.
The difference between the 1920s and 1960s dresses: different colours, simpler styles, new polyester fabrics. Hemlines were higher.
Tall, Lean, Attenuated Bodies
Fashion artists of the 1920s weren’t especially interested in realistic bodies. However, they did do something for gender expansive and gender non-conforming people.
Mistinguett – Cabaret Performer – Publicity Poster – art by Guy de Rougemont – c 1927L’Aperitif, c.1926 William GlackensJosef Fenneker film poster 1928Georges Léonnec (French, 1881 – 1940) ‘A Fashionable Couple’ from French magazine ‘La Via Parisienne’ 1920s
Gender fluidity and how we have chosen to express, through the language of Attire that fluidity is, of course, hardly a new idea. During the 1920s and 30s however, the notion was given a much broader playing field than it had been previously in Western culture, though it came to an abrupt halt with the onset of WWII. I came across this magazine cover from 27 March of 1930. The magazine? Le Sourire, The Smile. The image is of a clearly well-heeled couple of people, one expressing an overtly Jazz Age femininity. The other person remains a question mark. We do not know of a certainty if this is a binary identified male or female person, or if they identify differently. That is, obviously the point of the image.
from Attire’s Mind
French fashion illustrations c.1920s George BarbierFrench fashion illustrations c.1920s George BarbierFrench fashion illustrations c.1920s George Barbier
The seemingly relentless attenuation of the figure that has dominated fashion illustration has never been confined to womenswear drawings. Menswear illustrations, like this one from 1921 have stretched the male form as well, creating a singularly ectomorphic view of fashionable male appearance, just as much at odds with the reality as such drawings are of women. It is also true that the concept is hardly just a 20th century one. Illustrations from centuries previous show a similar, but less extreme lengthening of the body. Such imagery is often accompanied by a concomitant reduction in the size of the hands and feet. In many cultures small hands and feet are associated with elevated status and refinement, while large hands and feet get connected to manual labor.
from Attire’s Mind
Metropolis Berlin by Jeanne Mammen 1920sErté Aphrodite 1920sIllustration by Pierre Brissaud untitled, The Ties 1921
Peacock Feathers
Peacock feathers went well with 1920s patterns and continued to be fashionable into the 1930s.
Lady with a Peacock Fan by Gaspar Camps 1920s
Everybody Wore Hats
Saturday Evening Post Easter cover, April 3, 1920, illustration by J.C. Leyendecker Easter hatJ.C. Leyendecker (1874-1951) c. 1925. Men would take their boys clothes shopping. 1923, Romaine Brooks self portraitEvery Girl’s Story Book illustrations by Thomas Henry He snatched up his bag and jumped out by Thomas Henry 1920sAdvertisement for making your own hats by using Priscilla Hat Patterns. Published in the April 1924 issue of Modern Priscilla magazine
Except when relaxing in a private space, hats were expected.
Tea in the Afternoon by Charles Edward Chambers, 1920sVerlaine – French Ladies Wear Advertisement – art by Fernand Simeon – 1920
1920
HENRY CLIVE 1920Georges Barbier (1882-1932), French painter, fashion designer and illustrator, Dangerous routes, 1920Fred L. Packer, VIVAUDO, Mavis Talc – Perfume print ad, 1920Norman Rockwell Saturday Evening Post May 1, 1920 The Ouija Board
1921
Life magazine June 1921 art by Coles Phillips1921Art by Maud Tousey FangelGeorge Barbier
1922
Spring fashions published in the April 1922 issue of Woman’s Home Companion magazineCountry Club fashion plate published in the April 1922 issue of Woman’s Home Companion magazine. Illustration by Charles Sheldon1922 – Peasant Frocks by Lanvin from Woman’s Home Companion, illustration by Hester MillerCover illustrator unknown, 1922After the rain the sun, Vintage June 1922 Cover for Vogue, Illustration by MeseroleThe Saturday Evening Post, May 20, 1922. Art by Norman Rockwell. The point here is that the elderly people are wearing fashion from another time and trying to make sense of modern technology.Maclean’s – April Fool’s Day, 1922 Jello 1922 Art by Angus MacDonnalArt by Jay W. Weaver 1922A page from the 1922 Fall Winter Simpson Catalog1922 House DressesWoman with Spanish Shawl, J.C. Leyendecker, 1922Estey Residence Pipe Organ Console 1922 detail
1923
Allen A Hosiery & Underwear 1923 W.H. Hinton‘Summer.’ (1923) Dorothy Hawksley influenced by Japanese prints1923, Turned into Better Homes and GardensEdmond-Joseph Massicotte (1875-1914) Illustrations from the collection Nos Canadiens d’autrefois (1923) French Canadian life
1924
Illustration for ‘The Parisian Life’, Pierre Brissaud, 1924Cover design and illustration by P & L Studio, 1924Guy PENE DU BOIS Mr and Mrs Chester Dale dine out 1924Pratt and Lambert Varnish 1924 Art by Coles Phillips
1925
‘Sarti’ Fine Liqueurs – Postcard illustrator unknown, 1925My love, René Vincent. 1925by Kurt Ard (b. 1925) The Saturday Evening Post cover May 6, 19611925 Ladies Home Journal McCallum Silk Hosiery Ad, illustration by Malaga GrenetJ.C. LEYENDECKER A Stroll in the Snow 1925McClelland Barclay (American, 1891-1943) holeproof hosier for Life Magazine 1925Earl Christy
1926
Oh how she could play a ukelele by Benny Davis and Harry Akst, Art by Leff (Sydney Lefkowitz), 1926The Four Elements written by George Barbier,1926, in Falbalas and bells Present, Past and Future modesThe Four Elements written by George Barbier,1926, in Falbalas and bells Present, Past and Future modesThe Four Elements written by George Barbier,1926, in Falbalas and bells Present, Past and Future modesThe Four Elements written by George Barbier,1926, in Falbalas and bells Present, Past and Future modesIllustration by John Holmgren (1897-1963) 1926Judge – Magazine Cover – art by John Holmgren – 1926S W Reynolds
1927
Guy PENE DU BOIS Carnival 1927Frank GodwinJohn VassosBrunelleschiHenry CliveGeorges Léonnec (1881 – 1940). La Vie Parisienne, 12 Novembre 1927Gyula Várady 1927Men’s fashion catalogue, 1927
1928
Russell Patterson illustration for Oct 1928 Woman’s Home Companion piece illustrated Corinna Finds Employment by Alice Duer MillerWalter Beach Humphrey cover Collier’s Weekly, April 28, 1928Woman’s World March 1928. Art by Miriam Story Hurfordmagazine for women. 1928 USSRFrom Magazine Blanco y Negro. Illustrated by Ramón Manchón. Published in 1928Paul ColinGeorge LeonnecArt by René Vincent 1928 Paris
1929
E. Harding Illustration in The Tatler, England, March 6, 1929La Vie Parisienne – La Reine du Patin – January 1929 Georges Leonnac illustrator fashionParisian Life, December 29, 1929. Illustrator Georges Léonnec (1881-1940)Pierre Mourgue